The Tea and Spice Region
As we exited the boat at Alleppy there was our driver Murali waiting to take us off to Munnar and the tea and spice region of Kerala. Munnar lies at a height of 5,906 ft, in a part of the Western Ghat Mountain Range know as the High Ranges. The name Munnar (which means three rivers in Tamil) is derived from its location at the meeting place of three mountain streams. Located in over 59,000 acres of sprawling tea estates, first established by the British in 1878, Munnar was once a summer resort for the British government in South India.
As we made our way to Munnar (a 5 hour drive), we passed by lots of farmland and eventually, as the elevation started to rise, Murali pointed out the rubber tree plantations. We noticed how many of the trees had been tapped (just as maple trees are for their syrup) with bags tied around them to catch the rubber juice. The road became extremely twisty as we kept climbing towards Munnar (reminded me of Hwy. 1 along the coast of California). Murali is so great as he points out interesting things for us to look at and is willing to stop absolutely anywhere we want to. It only costs us a whopping $5 US a day, including tip, to have our wonderful driver.
Our driver, Murali
Along the road we came upon something we had never seen before, an elephant being transported in an open truck. We would like to have seen how they squeezed this guy in there. Murali said we are now entering elephant country, so this is a common site.
The video: How to Pack-a-Derm
We continued our windy drive; up and up and up we went. Murali asked us if we would like to stop at a spice plantation. Spices? For me, who loves to cook? Absolutely, we said. This region is very famous for its spices as well as its tea. We stopped at the Karadippara Cinnamon, Spice and Ayurvedic plant gardens and decided to get a guide to walk us through so we could learn all about the different plants. It was really fascinating to see all the plants that provide the spices we eat every day. Here is some of what we saw:
The list of over 50 spices, fruits and medical herbs grown in the gardens
Cloves. We never realized they grow on trees.
Coffee
This bamboo like plant with the big pods is an Insulin Plant. It is the only plant that produces a natural form of insulin. The leaves are chewed to release the insulin. This plant is a treatment for diabetics.
Red bananas
Cinnamon tree. Portions of the bark are removed only twice and then the tree is left alone, otherwise it will die.
Rowan and I in front of a poinsettia. They bloom here year round.
Here is our guide picking us some seeds under a cardamom plant. The seed pods come out on shoots at the bottom of the plant.
Here are the seed pods
This amazing tree is over 150 years old. I cannot for the life of me remember the name of it. It was just stunning.
Vanilla bean orchid
Vanilla vine
Cocoa bush with beans
Peppercorn vine
Peppercorns laid out in the sun to dry
Close-up of drying peppercorns
Of course we bought a load of fresh spices in the spice shop here to bring back with us. Looks like we will definitely be buying that extra suitcase to get us home now :o)
Notes on Kerala’s agriculture:
Kerala produces 96% of the national output of pepper and 91% of natural rubber. Coconut, tea, coffee, cashew and spices – including cardamom, vanilla, cinnamon and nutmeg are all part of the critical agricultural sector. A key agricultural staple is rice, with more than 600 varieties grown in Kerala’s extensive paddy fields. Home gardens are also a significant portion of the agricultural landscape. Raising animals is also important, and is encouraged by supporters as a means of alleviating rural poverty and unemployment among women, the marginalized, and the landless. Feeding, milking, breeding, management, healthcare, and micro-enterprises all provide work for around 3.2 million of Kerala’s 5.5 million households. The state government promotes such activity through educational campaigns.
As we moved on up the mountains the views were getting more spectacular by the minute. Murali stopped at a vista point so we could see the beauty we were driving into.
We noticed how the humidity was now gone and the crisp light air of the mountains was upon us. The car rounded a corner and as the trees cleared, we got our first glimpses of tea bushes, which seemed to immediately take over the landscape in a sea of green for as far as you could see. Wow! It was like the grape vines in California’s Napa Valley, but even on a grander scale.
We finally reached Munnar Town, a quaint little town just full of hotels, spice shops, teashops and eateries. We kept driving through Munnar and continued up and up some more. Our resort is located about 10 miles up the mountain from Munnar. Again, in an out-of-the-way place we prefer. We entered the Great Escapes Resort and took a hair-raising turn down a VERY steep half dirt road that took us down into a very heavily wooded environment. We are nearly at 7,000 feet now. Murali let us off at the bottom of the road where are resort is built into the steep side of the mountain. The fresh, cool, unpolluted air was so refreshing. We are nearly in the clouds here.
Here are some photos of the resort and our bungalow:
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