Into The Thar Desert-Part I

March 12, 2010

Today is a very exciting day. Going into the desert on camel-back is something the both of us have fantasized about since the first time we saw ‘Lawrence of Arabia’. How cool to be Peter O’Toole for a day!

We all got up this morning and put on our desert gear. Pure cotton traditional Indian dress in a light color is the best choice as the cotton is cool yet protects you from the scorching sun (it will be 100 degrees today). Charanya and I put on our salwar cameez and Shrikant his kurta. Rowan opted for the SPF infused outdoor western clothing in that new technical wicking fabric. A head scarf (hijab) is essential to keep your head from getting fried to a crispy crunch. We ate a hearty breakfast and off we went in our jeep to meet our Raikas (camel tenders) to start our journey into the desert. We will be provided with camels, Raika guides, a camel-pulled cart to carry our provisions (water, food, cooking stove, utensils, etc.). The first order of business for our head Raika was to instruct us on how to get on and off of a camel. Camels are HUGE animals, so this is no easy task, as you will see.

No, these are not terrorists, they are Jenni, Rowan and Charanya wrapped up in their hijab. :o)

Our man Shrikant

Watching someone get on a camel and staying on as the camel rises from its knees is funny. You really have to hang on.

After we were instructed on how to stay on the camels and all of our provisions were put into the camel carts, we set off into the Thar Desert. Get ready for camel toes :o)...Drum roll please...........

OK, so Jenni is giving it a SERIOUS Katharine Hepburn in that get-up. She forgot this isn't the African Queen, but the Thar Desert! :o)

As we began our journey, the landscape was covered with small scrub bushes and very dry looking trees. We learned that these trees have roots that dive over 200 feet deep to reach water. That is how they survive in this arid environment. We passed a couple of camel carts coming into town from the desert on our way out. This is the main transport for the desert people.

A few photos of our journey out.

After just over an hour on camel-back we came to this tiny village called Sentasa. Our Raika's asked us if we would like to stop here for some tea and a visit to a traditional desert home. In the interest of our behinds, we said yes. :o)

As we came into town, we were met by some of the village goats.

The camels found the well right away and went for a long drink. We learned that most villages across the desert are there because water has been found at that spot or within walking distance. The water you see here would be the main water source for the village.

How to stay on a camel when it is sitting down. I was surprised I could actually walk once I got off of that beast.

Village photos

We were welcomed into a house so we could see how these people live. Our guide took us in and explained to us how these villagers keep their food from spoiling in the intense heat. There are special huts built with extra thick mud walls, and no windows, for storage of grains, potatoes, onions, etc. Here is a video of our guide explaining in Hindu about the hut (Shrikant then translated what he said for us into English).

It is amazing how a hot cup of tea can actually cool you off in the desert heat

It is high fashion to shave your camels hair into intricate designs. Every camel we have seen so far is decorated like this.

How a camel takes a sand bath

After our short rest stop in the village, we got back on our camels and continued our journey into the desert. As we were leaving the village, a sheep herder passed us on the road. It's hard to imagine there is anything for these sheep to eat out here in this barren land, but they do survive. Our next stop will be for lunch.

Where we are headed........

More coming. Stay tuned...........

Bhandasar Jain Temple

One more thing from March 11, 2010

I almost forgot about our visit to the most special temple we have visited since we arrived in India. The Bhandasar Jain Temple here in Bikaner is listed as one of the most spectacular in all of India. And, this will be your only chance to see rare photos from inside a Hindu temple.

This temple is dedicated to the 5th Jain tirthankara, Sumatinathji (say that fast 3 times! :o) and is an artistic illustration of Jain beliefs, outlook towards the world and life in general. Go here for background on the Jain beliefs: http://www.religionfacts.com/jainism/beliefs.htm

The temple is the oldest existing structure in Bikaner, built in 1514AD. According to a local legend, coconuts and about 40,000 kilograms of ghee (clarified butter) was used in lieu of mortar when constructing the temple. A flourishing merchant Bhanda Shah constructed the 2-storied temple out of red sandstone and white marble that is the jewel of Bikaner. There are intricately detailed carvings on the majestic marble pillars that support the massive hall and many delicate and vibrant folk paintings that adorn the entire sanctum. These murals tell the story of the Jain religion. Several pillars are covered with sculptures of dancing maidens and others depict floral patterns. The artistry in this temple is by far the most elaborate we have seen and the folk paintings are exceptional. From the second floor of the temple we can see sweeping vistas of rustic Bikaner from the elaborate balconies.

This is the only temple we have visited that has allowed us to take photos inside, photography is always not allowed. We are very fortunate to be able to show you these photos.

I was lucky to get this photo of the inner sanctum where only the devout and priests are allowed in. The carved marble images and gold leaf was incredible. Absolutely every surface is decorated with something.

The steps leading into the inner sanctum

My only chance to get a rare photo of me with a priest inside of a temple.

The priest took this cool photo of us in the main temple. He laid the camera on the floor and had us look down so we could get the painting on the dome in the picture.

He also took this photo of the four of us on a balcony at the temple. Bikaner in the background. Of course we gave him and the temple a larger donation after our visit due to his personal attention to us (we were the only ones in the temple during our visit).

Bikaner

Now, off to writing that post about our camel adventure in the desert :o)

Headed West

To all of our blog followers,

Our exotic Indian adventure is ending. Tonight, we are headed back to the US.

I will leave the blog now for a couple of days as it will take us 24 hours to get back to Bloomington and then I will need at least another day to get my head to stop spinning from the journey.

Here are just a couple of Thar Desert Camel Safari pictures to keep you interested until I return. You can see I've still got some catching up to do.

Tally Ho!

Jenni & Rowan too

Lawrence, you are drifting.................. :o)

Karni Mata - The Rat Temple

Still More From March 11, 2010

You need to be seated because you just won’t believe what you are about to read about and see. We all agreed that this is absolutely the craziest thing we have ever seen and been standing in the middle of. Just TRY to wrap your head around this one!

Front of The Rat Temple

Our last stop today will be at the Karni Mata Hindu Temple, also known as the Rat Temple. The temple is located a short 30km drive south from Bikaner in the small town of Deshnok.

The legend of Karni Mata goes like this –

In the 14^th century, Goddess Karni is said to have lived and performed many miracles during her existence (she was a real person). Karni Mata was a mystic, who led a virtuous life committed to the service of the poor and the oppressed of all communities. The goddess is said to have laid the foundation of Deshnok. As per the stories, once when her youngest son drowned, Goddess Karni asked Yama (the god of death) to bring him back to life. Lord Yama replied that he could not return her son’s life. Thus, Karni Mata, being an incarnation of Goddess Durga (the invincible one, one who can redeem in situations of utmost distress), restored the life of her son. At this point of time, she announced that her family members would die no longer; in fact, they would incarnate in the form of rats (kabas) and ultimately, these rats would come back as members of her family. In Deshnok, there are around 600 families that assert to be the descendants of Karni Mata.

The temple at Deshnok was built in the 15^th century. It houses around 5,000 rats that are fed, protected and worshipped. Many holes can be seen in the courtyard of this temple. In the vicinity of these holes, one can see rats engaged in different activities. The rats can be seen here eating from huge metal bowls of milk, sweets and grains. To make the holy rats safe, wires and grills are sited over the courtyard to avoid the birds of prey and other animals getting inside.

It is regarded as good luck if a rat runs over your foot (this happened to me twice!) and it is considered promising and fruitful if you spot a rare white rat. As with all Hindu temples, visitors must remove their shoes before entering, which could make you cringe if you are nervous about walking around with a bunch of rats at your feet. The temple floor is not filthy, but you do run the risk of stepping on a few droppings as you walk around the temple.

Here are the photos and movies……….

Here we are with our driver, Krpal, just outside the temple gates. He is giving us the history of the temple and trying to prepare us for what we are about to see.

Once inside the courtyard of the temple, we found these rats drinking from a bowl of milk.

You have to admit they are pretty cute.

Hey mom, you know I've done some pretty crazy things in my life, right? After seeing this, maybe now you won't think that bunji jumping in New Zealand was really that crazy after all!

Look how cute these little guys are getting ready for a nap on the wrought iron fence.

I bet this is my long lost old uncle Henry and aunt Maud :o)

The alter entrance inside the temple

Rowan and I were not allowed inside the alter room in the temple because we are not Hindu's.

However, we were able to go just inside the first room to wait for Shrikant & Charanya to come out. We took the opportunity to sit down with the rats and take a picture through the little window just to the right of the main entrance.

And here is Charanya with her fresh bindi

And, here is a little video from just outside the alter area near this window.

All kidding aside, this temple and what it represents is taken very seriously by the many people who are believers. Here is a man kneeling at the temple gate to worship as he enters. Notice the rats running around him.

Some very interesting things we learned about the rats - they never leave the temple (it really is unbelievable how when you walk through the main gate, the rats just don't cross the threshold to come outside. I watched for quite some time and was amazed). In the temple's history the town has never been infested with them, there has never been an outbreak of plague or rodent-related disease among the town's people, and they have never attacked or bitten anyone. Sounds like something divine to me!

.......I think I just got over my fear of rats. :o)

Tomorrow, we are off on our camels into the Thar Desert. Stay tuned...........

Camels – The Ship of the Desert

NRCC Camel Breeding Research Facility

More from March 11, 2010

NRCC Camel Breeding Farm

The desert dwellers of Rajasthan could not survive without their camels. In the sandy, inhospitable expanse of the Thar Desert, it is their only means of transport, their beast of burden, as well as an important source of nourishment (camels' milk, slightly salty in taste, is drunk throughout Rajasthan's desert). The hardy camel demands little in return. It can do without food and water for up to a month in winter, and a week in the summer, tanking up on 70 liters of water at one go! The Rajasthani’s affection for his camel is evident in all of the desert fairs, where camels are celebrated.

The Indian Council of Agriculture Research (ICAR) established the National Research Center on Camel (NRCC) in Bikaner in 1984 to research and breed the finest camels in the world. The NRCC Camel Breeding Farm in Bikaner is managed by the government and is the largest in Asia. The center works with the three varieties of camel found here: Bikaneri, Jaisalmeri and Gujarati. They have developed an elite herd of camels at the facility for strength and endurance. They supply the army with camels whose cavalry regiments patrol the desert borders with Pakistan on camel back. Since we are getting ready to ride off into the Thar Desert on camels ourselves, we figured it would be good for us to visit this farm to learn more about the animals that will carry us into and, we hope, out of the desert. :o) We braved the near 100-degree temperature to go out and visit the farm (remember, we ARE in the desert!).

As we were walking up to the farm, the female camels and some of their young were coming in from grazing and on their way in to the corral. It was a magnificent sight to see them all walking in line as they came in. They move with such grace and ease considering their size and odd shape. I will have to let you know how much that 'grace and ease' translates to my body after I have been on one all day tomorrow! :o)

All camels have two rows of eyelashes which help keep the sand out of their eyes. Their humps contain a thick layer of fat, which shields their bodies from the scorching desert sun. Their facial expressions make it seem like they are forever smiling.

These male camels were hilarious. They all came running to the gate and lined up to smile as the females were walking by, giving their full attention to the ladies (we are just at the end of breeding season). Notice the nose of a dark one sticking up just over the wall to the right.

Here are some young camels nosing with their cousins on the other side of the wall.

A youngster taking a rest in the desert sun

The ladies lined up at the feeding trough.

After visiting the farm, we decided that there are a number of reasons having a camel is better than having a horse. They don't need as much maintenance and constant water, they are extremely loyal and trusting, they have unmatched stamina and strength, and, they are ALWAYS smiling. We will let you know about the ease of riding after tomorrow.

Now, there is one more stop today, the Rat Temple!

Stay tuned for something you just won't believe....................