Into The Thar Desert - Part II

March 12, 2010

……..As we continued our journey into the desert we were amazed at how much wildlife we were seeing all around us (besides Shrikant and Charanya :o). Birds were naturally the first things we started to see.

A Plum-headed Parakeet seemed to follow us for a short distance (I never got a photo, but found one on-line so you can see how beautiful they are).

We also saw many birds of prey flying over us as we went along (comforting sight!). The Imperial and Steppe Eagles were abundant (I got these photos on-line too as I could never catch a clear enough photo).

Imperial Eagle

Steppe Eagle

I was lucky enough to snap photos of a Tawny Pipit, Red-vented Bulbul and I think a Flycatcher who were checking us out from a tree when we stopped for lunch.

Tawny Pipit

Red-vented Bulbul

I think this is some sort of Flycatcher. I'm still working on a positive ID.

We also saw the Indian Gazelle/Antelope, called Chinkara. The Bishnoi tribes who inhabit the desert worship these animals. They can survive without water for very long periods and thrive mainly on wild grasses and various types of shrubs.

The other animal we saw was the Nilgali or Bluebull. It is actually not a cow, but an antelope, the largest in India.

It was now about 1pm and we were noticing how hot the sun was getting as it beat down on us (we were already at 100 degrees). Our Raika’s, being seasoned desert dwellers, know when to take a siesta, and now was the time. We ventured off of the beaten path and into a little dent in the sand where there were a few trees that had some foliage for shade. We made camp and the cook got right to setting up the kitchen and getting our lunch together. They also set up a mat under a tree for us to all sit and take in a cool drink before lunch. Thank goodness there was a breeze. We all imagined it was cooling us down.

No matter how ridiculous this Hepburn get-up looks, it was extremely effective at keeping that hot sun off of my face.

Once we stopped, we were more than happy to stand around for a bit so the blood could return to our legs and feet. We found that sitting on a camel for a length of time can make ones feet and knees go numb.

Our cook preparing our lunch. The rice is being made in the pressure cooker which is being heated by the red container of propane on the right.

Our little bit of shade and our hand washing bowl in the foreground.

No, our guide is not coming to torture us, he is serving us lunch! :o)

It is amazing how these guys can cook up such a delicious simple lunch way out here in the desert. Home made chippatti, cauliflower curry, Eggplant curry, fresh vegetable salad, Dhal and rice. Now the main task is to keep the sand out of our food! Everything was extremely delicious.

We jumped right in to the cool cucumber, tomato & onion salad. Aahhhhhhhhh! One note on the onions: The desert people eat lots of them as they contain mostly water and are used to quench ones thirst. They also keep extremely well in this environment so are taken on long camel trips into the desert. When water is scarce, onions are eaten. We found that this works! It's amazing!

Our yummy lunch

After eating, everyone laid down for a nap in the little bit of shade we had. A good strategy as we need to wait until at least 3:30pm to venture back into the desert sun, as the temperature starts to decline about this time. We remember in the movie 'Lawrence of Arabia' how there was always an afternoon break when crossing the desert. Now we know why.

With a full belly, Shrikant had no problem getting into the nap zone. Sorry Shri, I HAD to! :o)

While everyone else in our camp slept, I ventured out with my camera to take more photos. This is when I was able to get some of those bird photos at the beginning of this post, and also some great shots of the camels as they were resting too - right out in the beating sun!

Camels are so darn cute. They just keep smiling all the time! I even felt better after watching this guy have his scratch.

Stay tuned for Part III, as we head deeper into the desert and set up our evening camp for dinner.

Into The Thar Desert-Part I

March 12, 2010

Today is a very exciting day. Going into the desert on camel-back is something the both of us have fantasized about since the first time we saw ‘Lawrence of Arabia’. How cool to be Peter O’Toole for a day!

We all got up this morning and put on our desert gear. Pure cotton traditional Indian dress in a light color is the best choice as the cotton is cool yet protects you from the scorching sun (it will be 100 degrees today). Charanya and I put on our salwar cameez and Shrikant his kurta. Rowan opted for the SPF infused outdoor western clothing in that new technical wicking fabric. A head scarf (hijab) is essential to keep your head from getting fried to a crispy crunch. We ate a hearty breakfast and off we went in our jeep to meet our Raikas (camel tenders) to start our journey into the desert. We will be provided with camels, Raika guides, a camel-pulled cart to carry our provisions (water, food, cooking stove, utensils, etc.). The first order of business for our head Raika was to instruct us on how to get on and off of a camel. Camels are HUGE animals, so this is no easy task, as you will see.

No, these are not terrorists, they are Jenni, Rowan and Charanya wrapped up in their hijab. :o)

Our man Shrikant

Watching someone get on a camel and staying on as the camel rises from its knees is funny. You really have to hang on.

After we were instructed on how to stay on the camels and all of our provisions were put into the camel carts, we set off into the Thar Desert. Get ready for camel toes :o)...Drum roll please...........

OK, so Jenni is giving it a SERIOUS Katharine Hepburn in that get-up. She forgot this isn't the African Queen, but the Thar Desert! :o)

As we began our journey, the landscape was covered with small scrub bushes and very dry looking trees. We learned that these trees have roots that dive over 200 feet deep to reach water. That is how they survive in this arid environment. We passed a couple of camel carts coming into town from the desert on our way out. This is the main transport for the desert people.

A few photos of our journey out.

After just over an hour on camel-back we came to this tiny village called Sentasa. Our Raika's asked us if we would like to stop here for some tea and a visit to a traditional desert home. In the interest of our behinds, we said yes. :o)

As we came into town, we were met by some of the village goats.

The camels found the well right away and went for a long drink. We learned that most villages across the desert are there because water has been found at that spot or within walking distance. The water you see here would be the main water source for the village.

How to stay on a camel when it is sitting down. I was surprised I could actually walk once I got off of that beast.

Village photos

We were welcomed into a house so we could see how these people live. Our guide took us in and explained to us how these villagers keep their food from spoiling in the intense heat. There are special huts built with extra thick mud walls, and no windows, for storage of grains, potatoes, onions, etc. Here is a video of our guide explaining in Hindu about the hut (Shrikant then translated what he said for us into English).

It is amazing how a hot cup of tea can actually cool you off in the desert heat

It is high fashion to shave your camels hair into intricate designs. Every camel we have seen so far is decorated like this.

How a camel takes a sand bath

After our short rest stop in the village, we got back on our camels and continued our journey into the desert. As we were leaving the village, a sheep herder passed us on the road. It's hard to imagine there is anything for these sheep to eat out here in this barren land, but they do survive. Our next stop will be for lunch.

Where we are headed........

More coming. Stay tuned...........

Bhandasar Jain Temple

One more thing from March 11, 2010

I almost forgot about our visit to the most special temple we have visited since we arrived in India. The Bhandasar Jain Temple here in Bikaner is listed as one of the most spectacular in all of India. And, this will be your only chance to see rare photos from inside a Hindu temple.

This temple is dedicated to the 5th Jain tirthankara, Sumatinathji (say that fast 3 times! :o) and is an artistic illustration of Jain beliefs, outlook towards the world and life in general. Go here for background on the Jain beliefs: http://www.religionfacts.com/jainism/beliefs.htm

The temple is the oldest existing structure in Bikaner, built in 1514AD. According to a local legend, coconuts and about 40,000 kilograms of ghee (clarified butter) was used in lieu of mortar when constructing the temple. A flourishing merchant Bhanda Shah constructed the 2-storied temple out of red sandstone and white marble that is the jewel of Bikaner. There are intricately detailed carvings on the majestic marble pillars that support the massive hall and many delicate and vibrant folk paintings that adorn the entire sanctum. These murals tell the story of the Jain religion. Several pillars are covered with sculptures of dancing maidens and others depict floral patterns. The artistry in this temple is by far the most elaborate we have seen and the folk paintings are exceptional. From the second floor of the temple we can see sweeping vistas of rustic Bikaner from the elaborate balconies.

This is the only temple we have visited that has allowed us to take photos inside, photography is always not allowed. We are very fortunate to be able to show you these photos.

I was lucky to get this photo of the inner sanctum where only the devout and priests are allowed in. The carved marble images and gold leaf was incredible. Absolutely every surface is decorated with something.

The steps leading into the inner sanctum

My only chance to get a rare photo of me with a priest inside of a temple.

The priest took this cool photo of us in the main temple. He laid the camera on the floor and had us look down so we could get the painting on the dome in the picture.

He also took this photo of the four of us on a balcony at the temple. Bikaner in the background. Of course we gave him and the temple a larger donation after our visit due to his personal attention to us (we were the only ones in the temple during our visit).

Bikaner

Now, off to writing that post about our camel adventure in the desert :o)

Headed West

To all of our blog followers,

Our exotic Indian adventure is ending. Tonight, we are headed back to the US.

I will leave the blog now for a couple of days as it will take us 24 hours to get back to Bloomington and then I will need at least another day to get my head to stop spinning from the journey.

Here are just a couple of Thar Desert Camel Safari pictures to keep you interested until I return. You can see I've still got some catching up to do.

Tally Ho!

Jenni & Rowan too

Lawrence, you are drifting.................. :o)