Friday, March 19, 2010

Jaipur

March 10, 2010

Jaipur, also know as the Pink City because its prominent buildings are washed in this color, is the capital city of Rajasthan. It has a labyrinth of fascinating bazaars, lavish palaces and historic sites. Tradition and modernity exist side by side here. On the streets, motorbikes compete with cows, camels, elephants, donkeys, people and rickshaws for space. Turbaned village elders rub shoulders with young people in jeans. It is like taking a step back in time with a little twist of popular culture thrown in.

The rickshaws

Some architecture

Camel parking lot

Elephant taxi

A video of the street

We got up this morning and hired a driver to spend the day taking us to a few places we decided to explore. I was VERY excited that our taxi was going to be a 1957 Morris Oxford Series III Hindustan Ambassador. There are still many, many of these on the road here. Mostly used as taxi's.

The decision on what to see in our short time here wasn’t easy as there is soooo much history and culture to absorb. We chose to visit the Amber Palace and Fort complex first.


The Amber Fort is protected by Jaigarh Fort from the ridge above.


Short Amber Fort History: (sorry to bore you with more history, but it has always been my favorite subject, so you will always get some).

The Amber Fort lies about 10 miles northeast of Jaipur. The name “amber” derives from the goddess Amba Mata (Mother Earth) worshiped by local tribes at the site prior to the building of the fort complex.

Man Singh I established the fort palace in 1529 on the remains of an 11th century fort. Then, the Kachhawaha Rajputs (one of the three ruling warrior dynasties) maintained it as their capital until moving it to Jaipur in 1727. The Mughals (Pakistani Muslims) who were also in the region at this time had great influence with the Kachhawaha people; the pleasure palaces within the fort reflect the Islamic influence. Various other buildings were added to the fort by Jai Singh I between 1621-67 and constitute its magnificent centerpiece. The wall surrounding the fort encompasses the Old City, which was the early seat of the Amber kings before they made the fort their capital. Several havelis (private mansions) and temples can be seen below the fort, showing the existence of a self-sufficient township. As we were going through the fort, we decided the outstanding artistry displayed throughout the structure far surpasses any palace/fort we have seen anywhere else in the world. It is just magnificent! See what you think.

In this video we are walking up to the fort through part of the old town. Notice the open trench along the buildings to the left. This is how the waste water from the plumbing is removed from the houses. It makes for a very aromatic walk through the streets. This situation is still found in parts of many cities in India.




View of the Old City as we climbed to The Fort. Notice the fort's wall running up along the ridge and down the side of the mountain.

Here is a video of our very handsome guide (I'm a sucker for a good looking Indian man). He stayed with us throughout our time at The Fort and in the Old City.


As we passed through the main entrance of the fort we entered the main courtyard, also called Jaleb Chowk. As you will see, my people are always waiting for me as I am the one who is always taking the pictures :o)


Part of the Temple of Goddess Shilla. The outstanding decorative painting on this temple was done over 400 years ago with paint made from vegetable dyes.

We found it amazing how well these two antiquities have been preserved :o)

The magnificent Ganesh Pol is the shimmering three-storied gateway to three pleasure palaces, built in 1640, it is connected to the private apartments of the many wives by the screened uppermost level, meant for ladies in purdab (dress as a form of coverage).

Here is Ganesh in all of his splendor

The exquisite painting on this structure is simply stunning, again done with vegetable dye paint. The architectural attention to detail blows your mind.



Here are the hand carved marble modesty screens on the upper level used by the ladies to look out over the square. Apparently the women's apartments on this level have been designed in a manner which could easily facilitate the entry of the maharajah to various chambers without any of the concubines aware of the visit to any room!


The Sheesh Mahal and Jas Mandir. The walls and ceilings are inlaid with tiny mirrors and colored glass. It's just CRAZY how detailed everything is.




Exquisite floral marble carvings trimmed in black onyx inlay


These huge pots were used to cook food for the fort, routinely 700 people. We'd like to see what kind of spoon they stirred these with!

Now, here is the highlight of our day. As we were exiting the fort, we came upon a couple of snake charmers. Yes, real snake charmers. This was one of the things on our wish list that we wanted to see while here in India. We can't believe we actually found one!



Rowan asked if she could try to play that odd stringed instrument the guy on the left was playing. She had a very funny go at it (Personally, I'd say 'terrible' go at it! R).
Our cobra friend

We left the palace and walked back down through the old city to go check out the local artist bazaar. There was no photography allowed inside the market, so there are no pictures of us shopping. They did let me take one photo of Shrikant & Charanya in the Rajasthani turban's because it was so cute. You all will just have to visit us when we get home so you can see the fabulous things we bought while we were there. :o)

Check out the FABULOUS elephant tapestry behind the sheiks

After our shopping spree we were famished so our driver took us to a local Rajasthani restaurant to get some lunch. The food was outstanding. The beer cooled our very hot heads. The naan to die for!


I think I'm going to make a bed out of naan when I get home, all slathered in ghee.
The comfort food of the gods! I just can't get enough of it! YUM!

More to come..................

Thursday, March 18, 2010

To Rajasthan

March 9, 2010

Our next adventure is taking us to Rajasthan in the northwestern region of India. Our first stop will be in the state capital, Jaipur. Then we will go by train further west to Bikaner where we will go on a trek by camel into the Thar dessert.

Here is some background on Rajasthan:

Rajasthan is the largest state in India by area with 132,150 square miles. It encompasses most of the area of the large inhospitable Thar Dessert (Great Indian Desert) that extends into adjoining portions of Pakistan to the west. The state of Gujarat is to the southwest, Uttar Pradesh to the northeast and Punjab to the north. The Thar Desert is sparsely populated; the town of Bikaner is the largest city in the desert with a population of just over 700,000. The northwest Thar receives less than 15 inches of rain in an average year. Temperatures can exceed 115 degrees in the summer months and drop below freezing in the winter. One of the world’s oldest mountain ranges, the Aravalli Range, is here. Eastern Rajasthan has two national tiger reserves. The Indus Valley Civilization, one of the world’s first and oldest civilizations, was located in parts of what is now Rajasthan. Rajasthan’s economy is primarily agriculture and grazing. Wheat, barley, sugarcane and oilseeds are cultivated over large areas. Rajasthan is among the largest producers of edible oils in the country, and the largest wool producer and the main opium producer and consumer in India. Water for irrigation comes from wells and tanks. The very large textile and rug industries produce some of the finest hand made fabrics and rugs in the world. The art is breathtakingly beautiful, as you will see. No other place in India is as rich in magnificent historic palaces and forts as Rajasthan.

We are very excited that Shrikant and Charanya are joining us on this adventure. Charanya is not quite finished writing her thesis, so she will be the only one bringing her laptop along so she can continue to write whenever there is idle time.

Our journey started with a flight from Hyderabad to Jaipur at 8:30pm on March 9. We arrived in Jaipur and were picked up at the airport by our hotel taxi and arrived at the Arya Niwas Hotel just after 11pm. The hotel is a classic British era Indian hotel. We felt like we had walked back into the 1940’s. The place was extremely clean and well kept with exceptional service. The architectural artistry and gardens around the place were absolutely beautiful.

The main porch

Part of the front gardens


The floors are all inlaid marble


There are little tables with bowls of fresh flower petals floating in aromatic water lining the halls


Fountain in the central atrium


There is floral art painted on just about every surface, ceilings, walls, etc. Here are a few photos taken in our room and around the hotel.


Proof that Charanya is finding some time to keep working on that thesis :o)


More coming.........

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Kerala Flora and Fauna


I thought I'd end my posts on Kerala with a photo spread on the stunning flora and fauna from this garden-like state. Some of the flora you have already seen in my posts on the spice and tea gardens, so I won't post that again. We traveled from the sea to the highest mountain tops, so we found some interesting things to look at. With the large amount of tropical rainfall, the birds are abundant, as you will see. We hope you enjoy the photos...........

Magpie Robin
These are found throughout India

Domestic Goat

Cattle Egret

Hibiscus

House Crow
These pesky varmints are found throughout India. They get into everything, similar to Jays, Starlings, etc. This guy would come and sit on the fence by our back porch at Cherai Beach. Here, he has stolen something to eat from the outdoor restaurant.

Black Drongo

Snake Bird

Yellow Plumeria - I think

Steak! :o)

Asian/Indian Elephant

Golden Pheasant
This magnificent bird was in a large cage at our place in Munnar. He was something else to watch as he walked around his enclosure.

Beluga Whale

Purple Swamp Hens and Pond Heron

Hel Red Wagneriana

Tree Trunk
I'm still trying to sort out what kind of tree this is. The trunk and bark is exceptionally beautiful. I think it is an exotic tropical hardwood tree.

Not sure what this is called

White-breasted Waterhens
This group of birds came up the river so fast I barely had time to snap this photo. They were just beautiful to watch as they flew by just above the water.


This video was taken as the sun was rising at our Munnar resort. The sounds of birds singing was so loud at this time, it would wake me. The most bizarre thing is the sound of the Malabar Whistling Thrush. The first time I heard it, I was convinced there was someone just outside of our bungalow whistling at that ungodly hour. The bird is dark black with a blue shimmer to its feathers. I never did get a picture of it as it would only come out to whistle at sunrise and sunset.

Update: I found this photo of a Malabar Whistling Thrush on-line so you can see what kind of crazy bird can whistle like that.

Not sure what this is. It appears to be one of those insect eating (pitcher) flowers.

Garden Lizard
This guy was about 16 inches long

Arabian Sea Sand Crab

White-breasted Kingfisher
These are stunning to watch in the air. The iridescent blue is amazing.

Wide-Bellied Jenni Vulture stalking her prey :o)

Pond Heron in Flight
This is my favorite shot of all the birds. It was taken just as the sun was setting.

Toad
These would come out in the evening and hop around our bungalow at Cherai Beach (until I scared them away by either running after them to try and pick them up or with my camera flash).

If you ever get the chance to come to India, go to Kerala. It won't disappoint you.


Monday, March 15, 2010

We Made It!

Whew! We are back in Hyderabad. Our trip to Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh was AMAZING! Before I post about that trip, I will need a little time to download and edit the over 700 photographs/movies we took while in the desert and at the Taj Mahal. I also still need to post the last blog about Kerala and it's flora and fauna (didn't have time before we left) so I will start my new postings with that one.

Stay tuned for more adventure.............. :o)